Independent guide · Not a contractorWe never ask for your phone number.
Hurricane Isaias: Cleaning up in the Florida Panhandle, Alabama or Mississippi? What to do now, insurance and FEMA help, and the mold clock. Read the update
Comparison · Mold

What kills mold? Bleach, vinegar, peroxide and detergent compared

Short answer

Killing mold is the wrong goal. EPA says dead mold can still cause allergic reactions, so it has to be removed. EPA's method is to scrub hard surfaces with detergent and water and dry them completely, and it does not recommend bleach as a routine practice. If you do use bleach, CDC says use no more than 1 cup per gallon of water and never mix it with ammonia or any other cleanser. No spray rescues moldy porous materials like drywall or carpet; those usually get thrown away.

On this page
  1. Why is “what kills mold” the wrong question?
  2. How do the common options compare?
  3. Does bleach kill mold, and should you use it?
  4. Does vinegar kill mold?
  5. Does hydrogen peroxide kill mold?
  6. What about Concrobium and other mold sprays?
  7. Which approach fits which surface?
  8. Does it matter what kind of mold it is?

Why is “what kills mold” the wrong question?

Because killing mold does not finish the job. EPA says plainly: “Dead mold may still cause allergic reactions in some people, so it is not enough to simply kill the mold, it must also be removed.”

That changes how you judge any product. The question is not which liquid kills the most mold. It is which method gets the growth off the surface, and whether the material can be cleaned at all.

EPA’s household method uses no special chemical. “Scrub mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely.” Porous materials such as ceiling tiles and carpet “may have to be thrown away,” EPA says, because mold grows into their crevices and may be impossible to remove completely. No spray changes that.

EPA also notes that it is “not possible or desirable to sterilize an area.” Some mold spores will always be in indoor air and dust. They will not grow if the moisture problem is fixed. That is why every authority puts drying and leak repair ahead of any product. For the full DIY process, see how to get rid of mold. For background on identification, health and cost, see the mold hub.

How do the common options compare?

This table summarizes what EPA, CDC and the limited published research say. It does not rank products by kill rate, because no agency publishes one for household use.

Option What agencies say What research shows Best use Main caution
Detergent and water EPA’s recommended method for hard surfaces Not a biocide; works by physical removal First choice on any hard, non-porous surface Dry completely afterward
Chlorine bleach (diluted) EPA: not recommended as routine; may be used on professional judgment. CDC: no more than 1 cup per gallon Biocide (EPA) Hard surfaces when a disinfectant is wanted, after scrubbing Never mix with ammonia or any other cleanser (CDC)
White vinegar Not mentioned in EPA or CDC household guidance 2015 lab study: inhibited one indoor mold, no effect on another Light mildew on hard surfaces, if at all Never combine with bleach (CDC: no other cleansers)
Hydrogen peroxide Not mentioned in EPA or CDC household guidance No agency guidance found Only as an EPA-registered product used per label Do not mix with other cleaners
Registered mold products (for example, Concrobium) Products claiming to kill or prevent mold must be EPA-registered pesticides Performance varies by surface (2007 wallboard study) Hard surfaces after physical cleaning, per label Not a substitute for removing moldy porous material
Household UV lamps EPA: typical home units have “limited effectiveness” Higher doses needed than most home units give Not a cleanup method Dead spores still cause allergies (EPA)

Does bleach kill mold, and should you use it?

Chlorine bleach is a biocide, which EPA defines as a substance that can destroy living organisms. But EPA’s position is clear: using a biocide “is not recommended as a routine practice during mold cleanup.” EPA allows that professional judgment may call for one, for example when people with weakened immune systems are present.

If you decide to use bleach, follow CDC’s limits:

  • Use no more than 1 cup of household bleach in 1 gallon of water.
  • Never mix bleach with ammonia or any other cleanser.
  • Wear gloves made of natural rubber, neoprene, nitrile, polyurethane or PVC (EPA).
  • Ventilate the area and exhaust the air to the outdoors (EPA).

Scrub first, then apply the diluted solution if you want a disinfecting step, then let the surface dry. Using bleach in place of scrubbing leaves dead mold behind.

Bleach is a poor fit on porous materials. EPA’s guidance for drywall, ceiling tiles, insulation and carpet with mold growth is removal, not treatment. Stronger bleach is not more effective in any guidance we found, and it raises the fume risk.

Does vinegar kill mold?

The evidence is thin. EPA and CDC household mold guidance does not mention vinegar at all.

The most direct published test we found is a 2015 laboratory study in the International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health by Rogawansamy and colleagues. They tested household vinegar (about 4 percent acetic acid) against two molds collected from indoor and outdoor air. Vinegar inhibited Penicillium chrysogenum but had no effect on Aspergillus fumigatus. The authors concluded that vinegar “may not be effective against the diverse fungal genera” found indoors. The test was done on lab plates, not on walls or tile, so it says nothing about real surfaces.

Vinegar is mildly acidic, cheap and familiar, which is why it shows up on so many cleaning lists. If you use it on a light film of mildew on glass or tile, scrub the growth off and dry the surface, just as you would with detergent.

Never use vinegar and bleach together or one right after the other on the same surface. CDC’s rule is to never mix bleach with any other cleanser.

Does hydrogen peroxide kill mold?

We could not find EPA or CDC household mold guidance that recommends hydrogen peroxide. We also did not find a primary source that gives a household concentration or contact time for mold. So we do not publish one.

What we can say with confidence comes from EPA’s pesticide rules. A product that claims to kill, prevent or mitigate a pest, which includes mold and mildew, is a pesticide under federal law and generally must be registered with EPA before it can be sold. Registered products show an EPA registration number on the label, along with directions for use.

If you want a peroxide-based product, choose one that lists mold or mildew on an EPA-registered label and follow that label exactly. Scrub the growth off either way. Do not combine peroxide with vinegar, bleach or other cleaners.

What about Concrobium and other mold sprays?

Commercial mold sprays fall under the same EPA pesticide rules. Concrobium Mold Control, one of the most searched brands, is registered as EPA Reg. No. 82552-1. Its label lists 0.95 percent sodium carbonate as the active ingredient and the rest as other ingredients. The label describes the product as a fungistat and mildewstat, meaning it is aimed at inhibiting growth, and says it can be used on hard and fabric surfaces.

Independent testing shows that surface type matters more than brand. A 2007 study by Menetrez and colleagues, published in Environmental Science and Pollution Research, tested 13 cleaners on gypsum wallboard contaminated with Stachybotrys chartarum over six months. The authors found “the best antimicrobial cleaner to choose is often dependent on the type of surface.” They also stated that the results “are not meant to endorse the incomplete removal of mold contaminated building materials.” In other words, even the best performers did not make moldy drywall worth keeping.

EPA adds one firm warning for all products: do not use fungicides made for outdoor use for indoor mold.

Which approach fits which surface?

Match the method to the material. EPA’s tables sort materials by how they respond to cleaning.

Surface Recommended approach Product role
Tile, glass, metal, plastic, sealed stone Scrub with detergent and water; dry Optional diluted bleach or registered product after scrubbing
Grout and caulk in showers Scrub with detergent and a stiff brush; dry; improve ventilation Optional, per label; replace caulk that stays stained
Painted or finished wood Damp wipe with mild detergent; dry quickly Rarely needed
Concrete and block Scrub; dry with dehumidifiers and fans Optional, per label
Drywall with growth into the paper Cut out, bag and replace No product saves it
Carpet, pad, ceiling tiles, insulation Usually discard No product saves it

For room-specific advice, see mold in the bathroom and mold on drywall.

Does it matter what kind of mold it is?

No. CDC says, “No matter what type of mold is present, you need to remove it.” No product is recommended for one mold color over another. Dark mold, often called “black mold,” gets the same treatment as any other mold of the same size on the same surface.

Be wary of products or services that claim to remove “mold toxins” from your home or your body. Leading medical groups, including the American Academy of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology and the American College of Medical Toxicology, say urine mycotoxin tests and “mold detox” treatments are not validated. Our mycotoxin testing guide explains why.

When to call a pro

  • The moldy area is larger than about 10 square feet (EPA).
  • Mold is growing into drywall, insulation, carpet or ceiling tiles, which usually need removal, not a spray.
  • Mold returns after cleaning, which means a moisture source is still active.
  • Anyone in the home has asthma or a weakened immune system and you are considering a biocide (EPA, CDC).
  • The water was sewage or floodwater (EPA).

Questions to ask before you hire anyone

Common mistakes

  • Spraying and walking away. EPA says it is not enough to kill mold; it must be removed.
  • Making bleach stronger than CDC's limit of 1 cup per gallon. Stronger is not better and raises the fume risk.
  • Mixing products, or using bleach right after another cleaner without rinsing. CDC warns never to mix bleach with any other cleanser.
  • Expecting any product to save moldy drywall or carpet. EPA says porous materials may be impossible to clean completely.
  • Using outdoor fungicides indoors. EPA says not to use fungicides made for outdoor use for indoor mold.

Questions people ask

Does bleach kill mold?

Chlorine bleach is a biocide, which EPA defines as a substance that can destroy living organisms. But EPA does not recommend bleach as a routine practice during mold cleanup, because the goal is removal, not just killing. Dead mold can still trigger allergies. If you use bleach, CDC's limit is 1 cup per gallon of water, never mixed with other cleaners.

Does vinegar kill mold?

Evidence is limited. In a 2015 lab study published in the International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health, household vinegar inhibited one common indoor mold, Penicillium chrysogenum, but had no effect on another, Aspergillus fumigatus. EPA and CDC household guidance does not recommend vinegar. Scrubbing with detergent and water is EPA's method.

What is the bleach to water ratio for mold?

CDC says to use no more than 1 cup of household bleach in 1 gallon of water. Never mix bleach with ammonia or any other cleanser, wear gloves rated for bleach and keep the area ventilated. EPA does not recommend bleach as a routine practice, so detergent and water should be your first choice.

Is Concrobium better than bleach?

They work differently. Concrobium Mold Control is registered with EPA as a pesticide (EPA Reg. No. 82552-1). Its label lists 0.95 percent sodium carbonate as the active ingredient and describes it as a fungistat and mildewstat. Neither product replaces physical removal, and EPA's guidance on biocides applies to both.

Does hydrogen peroxide kill mold?

We did not find EPA or CDC household guidance that recommends hydrogen peroxide for mold. If you use a peroxide-based product, choose one that lists mold or mildew on an EPA-registered label, follow the label and still scrub the mold off. Do not mix it with other cleaners.

Sources

  1. Should I use bleach to clean up mold?, U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (September 8, 2026)
  2. A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home, U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (February 18, 2026)
  3. Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings Guide: Chapter 3, U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (April 29, 2026)
  4. Does ultraviolet (UV) radiation from UV lamps kill mold?, U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (September 8, 2026)
  5. What is a Pesticide?, U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (January 29, 2026)
  6. Concrobium label, EPA Reg. No. 82552-1 (notification accepted), U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, Pesticide Product Label System (February 24, 2023)
  7. Mold Clean Up Guidelines and Recommendations, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (February 16, 2024)
  8. An Evaluation of Antifungal Agents for the Treatment of Fungal Contamination in Indoor Air Environments (Rogawansamy et al., Int J Environ Res Public Health 12(6):6319-6332), PubMed Central, U.S. National Library of Medicine (2015-06)
  9. Testing antimicrobial cleaner efficacy on gypsum wallboard contaminated with Stachybotrys chartarum (Menetrez et al., Environ Sci Pollut Res 14(7):523-528), RTI International (2007)
  10. Toxic Mold Syndrome, American Academy of Allergy, Asthma and Immunology (July 29, 2026)
  11. ACMT Position Statement: Mold-Related Inhalation Exposures, American College of Medical Toxicology (August 13, 2025)

How this page was made. Drafted with AI assistance from the public agency, statute and industry sources listed above, then edited and published by Vincent Wallace. An independent expert has not yet reviewed this page; when one does, their name and the review date will appear at the top. See our editorial policy. Spotted an error? Tell us.