Flood cleanup step by step: from muck-out to dry-out

Is it safe to go back in and start cleaning?

Not until three things are true. Officials have said the area is safe. The electricity is off. And the building is not visibly unsafe.

Ready.gov says to return home only when authorities say it is safe. EPA says not to enter until you are sure the electricity is off, and to assume the building is unsafe if you see a sagging roof, walls that are not straight or new cracks outside. CDC says that if your home has damage, wait until a building inspector has examined it. CDC also suggests going back in daylight so you do not need lights.

If you smell gas, CDC says to turn off the main gas valve, open windows and leave immediately. Do not return until you are told it is safe.

Watch for animals. Ready.gov notes that snakes and other animals may be in the house, and IICRC advises care when moving contents or removing materials.

If you have only a few minutes before you can start, our flood emergency page covers the first-hour steps. This guide picks up from there and covers the full cleanup. For flood insurance, FEMA aid and rebuilding, see the flood hub.

What should you wear for flood cleanup?

Floodwater is dirty water. CDC says it may contain sewage, and the S500 restoration standard lists rising water from rivers or streams and seawater flooding as Category 3 examples, its highest contamination level. Dress for that.

CDC says NIOSH-approved respirators are not designed for children, and that children should not take part in disaster cleanup work. People with asthma, COPD or a weakened immune system should stay away from moldy spaces, CDC says. Keep cuts covered, and CDC advises knowing when you last had a tetanus shot in case of a puncture wound. Wash with soap and water when you finish.

Step 1: Document everything before you move it

Photos come before cleanup. FEMA’s FloodSmart site says to “take clear pictures and videos of damaged items before cleaning, fixing or throwing them out,” with wide shots and close-ups of walls, floors and furniture. Record serial numbers from appliances and electronics.

FEMA’s NFIP claims checklist adds two steps that people often miss:

• If you must throw items away, keep samples of carpet or flooring, blinds and similar materials to show your adjuster.
• Submit your supporting documentation to your insurance provider within 60 days of the flood.

Call your insurer as soon as you can. The Texas Department of Insurance says most homeowners policies do not cover flood damage, so the claim may go to a separate flood policy. Check your declarations page. Questions about your coverage are for your insurer, your state insurance department, a licensed public adjuster or an attorney. If you are uninsured or underinsured, our guide to FEMA assistance explains how disaster aid works.

Step 2: Remove standing water and mud

Pump or bail out standing water, then shovel out mud while it is still wet. EPA advises using caution when removing standing water from your home, and its tool list for flood cleanup includes a shovel, fans or dehumidifiers, trash bags and a way to cut drywall.

Go slowly with a flooded basement. EPA warns that if the water is several feet deep, “removing water too quickly may make the walls and floor crack and collapse.” If you are unsure, have a professional pump it.

Run pumps, pressure washers and generators outside. CDC says never to use them inside a home, basement or garage, or less than 20 feet from any window, door or vent. The Red Cross warns that carbon monoxide “can’t be seen or smelled, but it can kill you fast.” If you start to feel sick, dizzy or weak, get to fresh air right away.

Step 3: Muck out what cannot be saved

“Muck-out” means removing everything that soaked up floodwater. CDC says to throw away items that cannot be disinfected, “like wall coverings, cloth, rugs, and drywall.” IICRC lists drywall, carpet and pad, mattresses, pillows, box springs and particle board as items that should normally be discarded if wet.

EPA’s “What Can I Keep?” guide sorts household items into three groups:

For food, CDC says to throw away anything that may have touched flood or storm water: “When in doubt, throw it out.” EPA warns that flooded lithium batteries should not go in regular trash or recycling and should be moved out of the home or garage because they can cause fires. Debris rules vary, so check with your local waste office before you pile things at the curb.

Step 4: Open the walls and pull up wet flooring

Water wicks up drywall and hides in wall cavities. IICRC’s flood guidance says to remove baseboards, find the water line, “measure 15 to 20 inches above it” and remove everything below. Mississippi State University Extension says at minimum to remove drywall from the floor to the visible high-water line. Wet insulation usually has to come out too. MSU Extension says cellulose insulation “must be removed.”

Pull up hardwood, laminate and sheet vinyl so the subfloor can be cleaned and dried, IICRC says. Plaster is different. MSU Extension says plaster can take weeks or months to dry “but it may not be ruined by water.”

Stop and read the next section before you cut, scrape or pry anything in an older home.

Is there asbestos in my flooded older home?

There may be. Flood demolition is exactly the kind of work that releases asbestos fibers, so check before you cut, pry or scrape. EPA says older homes may contain asbestos and lists places it can hide, including vinyl floor tiles and the backing on sheet flooring, textured paint and patching compounds on walls and ceilings, vermiculite attic and wall insulation, and coatings on hot water and steam pipes. EPA says you usually cannot tell by looking, and “if in doubt, treat the material as if it contains asbestos and leave it alone.” EPA’s flood guidance adds: “Do not remove asbestos-containing floor tile even if it is damaged.” Do not saw, sand, scrape, sweep or vacuum suspect debris. Federal law does not require accreditation for work in detached single-family homes, but EPA notes some states and localities do, so check your state’s asbestos program. For questions, EPA lists its TSCA hotline at (202) 554-1404.

Do lead paint rules apply to flood repairs?

Yes, in homes built before 1978, and the emergency exception is narrower than many people think. EPA says about three-quarters of U.S. homes built before 1978 still contain some lead-based paint. If you hire anyone to disturb painted surfaces in a pre-1978 home, EPA’s Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) rule requires the firm to be certified, “even sole proprietorships.” Homeowners working on their own home are generally exempt unless the home is rented, used for child care or being flipped.

You may hear that lead rules do not apply after a flood. That is not what the regulation says. Under 40 CFR 745.82(b), emergency work is exempt from warning signs, containment, waste handling and training and certification requirements “only to the extent necessary to respond to the emergency.” Cleaning and cleaning verification must still be done by certified renovators, and records must be kept. The rule’s “minor repair” exemption covers only 6 square feet of painted surface per room inside and does not apply to demolition.

Cutting out painted drywall, trim or plaster in a pre-1978 home can raise lead dust, which EPA says is particularly harmful to young children. Keep children away from the work area. For questions, EPA lists the National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (5323).

Step 5: Clean and disinfect what stays

Once walls are open, clean every surface that stays. CDC says to clean walls, hard floors and other surfaces with soap and water. IICRC advises cleaning wall cavities and exposed studs and joists with detergent, flushing them, then applying a disinfectant.

If you use bleach, CDC’s flood guidance gives two ratios:

Open windows and doors first. CDC says never to mix bleach with ammonia or any other cleaner. IICRC says washing clothes and fabrics with at least a 10-minute soak in detergent and hot water should remove most contamination.

Step 6: Dry it out before you rebuild

Drying is the step that decides whether mold moves in. CDC says to clean up and dry your home “within 24 to 48 hours if possible.” EPA notes that things left wet for more than two days usually get moldy. Use fans, air conditioning and dehumidifiers. EPA recommends keeping indoor humidity below 60 percent, ideally 30 to 50 percent.

Dry does not mean dry to the touch. IICRC says not to rebuild or cover wood until its moisture content is below 16 percent, measured with a moisture meter. MSU Extension advises allowing at least 4 to 6 weeks for walls to dry completely, depending on weather and airflow.

Florida’s Division of Consumer Services reminds flood policyholders that “it is your responsibility to do all you can to prevent the growth and spread of mold.” If mold appears anyway, our guide to mold after a flood explains what to clean yourself and when to hire help. EPA’s DIY limit is about 10 square feet.

When does it make sense to hire a pro?

Many homeowners muck out themselves and hire help for the parts that are hazardous or technical. The When to call a pro box on this page lists the main triggers: electrical damage, structural damage, older homes with lead paint or asbestos, large mold growth, and health conditions that make cleanup unsafe for you.

A water damage restoration company brings extraction pumps, commercial dehumidifiers and moisture meters, and can document drying for your claim. Ask what water category the company assigns. Our guide to water damage categories and classes explains the labels.

If a contractor approaches you after a flood, get a written scope, avoid large cash deposits and read anything you sign. Our guide to storm chaser scams lists the warning signs.